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MERCERIZED PROCESS & IT'S OVERVIEW

Mercerizing Process | Textile Finishing Guide

Advanced Mercerizing Technology

Transform ordinary fabrics into high-performance textiles through controlled alkali treatment. Discover the science behind enhanced luster, strength, and dye affinity in modern textile finishing.

Mercerization: A Technical Definition

Mercerization is a physicochemical finishing process where cellulosic fibers undergo treatment with concentrated sodium hydroxide (NaOH) solutions (typically 18-25% w/v) under controlled tension. This alkaline treatment induces permanent morphological changes in the cellulose crystalline structure, converting cellulose I to cellulose II while increasing amorphous regions. The process enhances fiber luster by 30-40%, tensile strength by 15-25%, and dye uptake by 20-30% while improving dimensional stability.

Performance Enhancements

Quantifiable improvements achieved through proper mercerization

30-40%
Increase in Luster
15-25%
Strength Improvement
20-30%
Higher Dye Uptake
2-3%
Reduced Shrinkage

The Mercerizing Process

Step-by-step technical workflow for optimal fiber modification

1

Fabric Preparation

Prior to mercerization, fabrics undergo complete desizing (enzyme or oxidative), scouring (NaOH 2-5% at 95-100°C), and bleaching (H₂O₂ 3-5% at pH 10.5-11). This removes non-cellulosic impurities (waxes, pectins, natural coloring matter) ensuring uniform NaOH penetration. The fabric should achieve a wettability of <1 second (AATCC 79) and residual extractable content <0.5%.

2

Alkali Impregnation

Fabric passes through a 3-bowl padding mangle (nip pressure 2-4 bar) containing NaOH solution (18-25% for cotton, 10-15% for regenerated cellulose) at 15-18°C (cold mercerization) or 70-80°C (hot mercerization). The saturator includes wetting agents (0.5-1 g/L nonionic surfactants) and may contain fiber lubricants (0.5-1% silicone-based). Dwell time in saturator: 30-60 seconds.

3

Tension Control

The NaOH-saturated fabric enters a stenter frame maintaining 5-10% warp-wise tension (measured by load cells at 5-10N/cm). This controlled stretching prevents shrinkage while promoting molecular realignment of cellulose chains parallel to the fiber axis. The tension phase lasts 30-120 seconds depending on fabric construction.

4

Washing & Neutralization

Multi-stage washing begins with cold water rinses progressing to hot (80°C) to remove NaOH. Neutralization uses acetic acid (1-2%) or sulfuric acid (0.5-1%) to achieve pH 6.5-7.5 in the final fabric. Conductivity of final rinse water should be <50 μS/cm indicating complete alkali removal.

5

Final Drying

The mercerized fabric passes through drying cylinders at 90-110°C with 6-8% overfeed to maintain relaxed dimensions. Residual moisture content should be 6-8% (ISO 2060). Over-drying (>110°C) causes harsh hand feel and reduced dye uptake.

Mercerizing Machinery

Specialized equipment for precision fiber modification

Padding Mangle System

Modern padding mangles feature:

  • 3-bowl configuration (rubber-covered with 70-80 Shore hardness)
  • Nip pressure control (2-4 bar adjustable)
  • Liquor circulation system with filtration
  • Temperature control (±1°C accuracy)
  • Automatic concentration monitoring (refractometer-based)

Stenter Frame

Key features of mercerizing stenters:

  • Pin or clip attachments with 5-10% overfeed control
  • Automatic edge guiding (±2mm accuracy)
  • Load cell tension monitoring (5-10N/cm typical)
  • Stainless steel construction for alkali resistance
  • Integrated spray bars for controlled washing

Washing Chambers

Advanced washing systems include:

  • 4-6 compartment counter-current design
  • Temperature gradient (20°C to 80°C)
  • High-pressure spray nozzles (3-5 bar)
  • Vacuum extraction between compartments
  • Conductivity monitoring of effluent

Chemical Parameters

Precision formulations for optimal fiber modification

Fabric Type NaOH Concentration Temperature Tension Dwell Time Additives
100% Cotton Woven 22-25% 15-18°C 8-10% 45-60 sec Wetting agent 0.5g/L
Cotton Knit 20-22% 18-20°C 5-7% 30-45 sec Lubricant 0.5%
Cotton/Polyester (65/35) 18-20% 20-25°C 6-8% 40-50 sec Wetting agent 1g/L
Linen 20-22% 18-22°C 7-9% 50-60 sec Lubricant 1%
Viscose/Rayon 10-15% 15-20°C 3-5% 30-40 sec Anti-creasing agent

Chemical Additives Guide

Modern mercerizing baths utilize specialized additives:

  • Wetting agents (0.5-1 g/L): Alkyl polyglycosides or ethoxylated alcohols for rapid penetration
  • Sequestering agents (1-2 g/L): EDTA or NTA derivatives to control water hardness ions
  • Fiber lubricants (0.5-1%): Silicone emulsions or polyethylene glycol esters
  • Anti-creasing agents: Modified polysiloxanes for delicate fabrics
  • Neutralization aids: Buffered acid systems for pH stabilization

Quality Enhancements

Measurable improvements from proper mercerization

Luster Improvement

Mercerization increases light reflectance by 30-40% (measured by CIE whiteness index 120-150 vs. 80-100 for untreated cotton). The process:

  • Swells fibers from 16μm to 20μm diameter
  • Changes cross-section from bean-shaped to circular
  • Aligns microfibrils parallel to fiber axis
  • Reduces surface irregularities by 40-50%

Tensile Strength

Proper mercerization increases warp-wise tensile strength by 15-25% (ASTM D5035) through:

  • Conversion of cellulose I to cellulose II crystal structure
  • Increased degree of polymerization (DP 2500→2800)
  • Improved orientation factor (from 0.70 to 0.85)
  • Reduction in amorphous defects

Dye Affinity

Mercerized fabrics show 20-30% higher dye uptake (K/S values) due to:

  • Increased amorphous content (from 30% to 40%)
  • Higher accessible volume (1.45 vs. 1.25 cm³/g)
  • Improved dye diffusion coefficients (D×10¹⁰: 2.5→4.0)
  • Reduced crystallinity index (75%→65%)

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